Jodhpurs Have Been Around For A Long Time

By Jerri Perry


Today jodhpurs are mainly worn for horseback riding, but throughout history they have been traditional oriental garb for men, part of military uniforms, and preferred wear for motorcycle police and Hollywood movie directors. They have even entered the world of high fashion now and then, depending on the whim of designers and the activities of high profile celebrities. Today they are worn for informal English-style riding, by child riders, and as formal show wear for Saddlebred competitions.

The traditional jodhpur was roomy at the hip and tight-fitting from knee to ankle. It's a good cut for riding, as it provides freedom of movement for hip and thigh but helps to give a good grip for the lower leg. Modern stretch fabrics have changed the need for the flared hip, which has totally gone out of fashion; today the styles are form-fitting.

Sir Pratap Singh, a younger son of the Maharaja of Jodhpur, introduced the style to England when his polo team arrived to play for the Queen. Although by definition the trousers extend to the ankle, the English players began wearing breeches that ended at mid-calf. They wore high boots with the shorter pants, while the genuine long pants are made to be worn with low shoes or paddock boots. The distinctive hip flare was retained.

This adaptation was adopted by the rest of the equestrian world, especially after the 1920s when women began to ride astride. It became a familiar look for military staff officers in the west, in Nazi Germany, and in the USSR. Tall boots were part of this sartorial symbol of authority. Motorcycle police also stomp around in tall boots, but the fact that the flare was retained until recently made many think that they were wearing jodhpurs.

However, the true jodhpur that extended to the ankle became standard wear for children, grooms, and for informal occasions. Short boots, called paddock boots, are better for children, who grow out of their shoes quickly, and are also suitable for working around horses and stables. Instructors say that it's easier to see that riders are keeping the correct leg position when the full-length pants and shorter boots are worn.

Adults who wear them often add half-chaps or leggings for extra grip and protection when mounted. These zip up or lace to cover the lower leg; they have a strap that goes under the boot for a secure fit. They provide protection against the rub and pinch of the stirrup leathers.

Jodphur construction includes knee patches, which offer further chafe protection and improve the rider's grip. Many also have a seat patch of some non-slip material to help the rider stay in the saddle. Modern styles may have the seat and the entire inner leg covered with leather suede or another material. Seams are on the outside of the leg, to minimize rubbing and extend the life of the garment.

Jodhpurs in all colors are acceptable for informal occasions, but competition usually requires traditional beige or white. Saddlebred show riders wear a special style with a flared cuff that comes low over the heel, always in dark blue or black.




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